The Loop Issue Thirty-Five
Letter from the Editor
Across the industry, creative directors are stepping into new houses, established names are returning to their own labels, and heritage brands are reconsidering what their histories can mean for a new generation. But a change in leadership doesn't automatically mean a change in identity — and a new name on the door doesn't guarantee a new vision. Consider this issue of The Loop your guide to the changing of the guard, a chance to discover the designers worth watching, rethink what belongs in your wardrobe, and understand the creative decisions shaping the clothes we'll be wearing next. Because fashion's future isn't just about who’s in charge. It’s about what they choose to do with the legacy they’ve inherited.
With love,
IN THE NEWS:
FASHION’S LEADERSHIP RESHUFFLE
Creative directors tend to get the headlines, but fashion’s latest reshuffle is happening on the business side. Net-a-Porter has named Devina Foley president of the Americas, putting her in charge of its U.S. strategy and operations. At Pucci, Louis Vuitton executive Clara Boissonnas will take over as CEO in January 2027, with a mandate to build the house’s international reach without losing its distinctive identity. Meanwhile, Henry Zankov’s namesake label has appointed Jack Tobin its first CEO and business partner, making a two-year working relationship official. That partnership has already helped Zankov more than double its global stockist network and grow its international business tenfold.
KIM JONES’S RETURN
Kim Jones has spent years giving us reasons to want someone else’s label. In 2027, he’s betting on his own. The former Dior Men’s artistic director is reviving his namesake brand, with menswear, tailoring, and versatile, gender-inclusive designs on the agenda. A first global flagship in Hong Kong is also planned for 2027. It’s a different assignment from taking the helm at an established house: the name on the label is his, and so are the expectations. That’s what makes this return worth watching. We know Jones can make an impression inside fashion’s biggest institutions. Now comes the more personal question: What does he want his own name to stand for?
ANTHONY VACCARELLO’S EXIT
Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after ten years, ending a run that made his name almost inseparable from the house. And the clothes weren’t the only thing making a statement: annual sales surpassed €3 billion during his tenure, giving his successor a formidable act to follow. The next designer will need to make Saint Laurent feel like their own while answering to an audience that hasn’t necessarily finished saying goodbye. Fashion may move quickly, but a decade is not so easily replaced.
TREND WATCH:
THE ARCHIVE’S COMEBACK
In 2026, the evolved consumer looks to fashion as a storytelling tool, preferably one imbued with heritage. And as creative directors take the reins at established houses, the archive is becoming one of their most valuable tools. From Jonathan Anderson at Dior to Fausto Puglisi at Roberto Cavalli, designers are turning to the past to shape what comes next, using archival references to establish a dialogue between a house’s legacy and their own creative vision. And it isn’t just the creative directors; brands as a whole are formalizing this trend with curated repositories, such as The Virgil Abloh Archive. It is important to note that infusing heritage is not enough, as directors must walk the fine line between reinterpretation and copying. Successful reference to the archive would require infusing historical surrealism into modern techniques, rather than simply copy-pasting.
FASHION GETS PLAYFUL
Fashion is having fun again. Just take a look at some of the looks in Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Spring 2026 show, and you’ll know right away that these new creative directors aren’t interested in playing it safe. From elaborate bows that act more as statement pieces than they do accessories, to top hats that look more like architectural feats than they do fashionable accessories, one thing is clear — it’s time to start pushing the boundaries of what we think we can and can’t wear. Whether it’s an unexpected accessory, a clash of colors, or a silhouette that doesn’t take itself too seriously, these upcoming creative directors are sending us all a message: Fashion doesn’t always have to make sense to make a statement.
STYLE SPOTLIGHT: STATEMENT SKIRT, MAXIMALIST DRESSING
Mismatching patterns, unusual color combinations, and contrasting fabric pairings are so in. High-impact maximalism, after years of quiet luxury and minimalist tailoring, is back, and the statement skirt has catalyzed the movement. Designers like Dior, Alaïa, and Loewe, to name a few, have leaned into sculptural shapes, ruffled tiers, fringe and feathers, and eye-catching asymmetry. While the industry shifts away from the quiet luxury minimalism that previously dominated, a skirt offers the perfect low-effort approach to soft maximalism, allowing wearers to embrace drama without completely deviating from their usual look. And, by simply tucking a basic white T-shirt or a crisp button-down into a loud skirt, an everyday outfit is instantly elevated into an editorial statement.
